The T-35 seems to grab the inset of the bolt, but when trying to rotate it, no dice and the bit comes out of the hole/ slips (and this is using strong pressure directly over the bolt and using a breaker bar as a regular ratchet handle (3/8” drive) simply didn’t apply enough torque. Any ideas to free up the bolts without drilling them out or other brutal tactics. I’ll either return it to RetroModern and lose 20% restocking fee or maybe try to sell it here. SpyderChat Forum is a community for Toyota MR2 Spyder Enthusiasts to discuss specs, reliability and more Full Forum Listing. I’m not sure if I can get this installed. 2000-2005 Toyota Spyder MR2 2dr OEM Fiberglass Hardtop by ViS. I don’t want to further bugger up the bolt and I just cannot get it to release (I read a thread from 2005 in which another owner had the same issue and basically pounded a T-40 Torx bit in and then got the bolts to release, but no such luck with this. When I wanted to remove the bolts of the striker (which are actually T-35 Torx button head bolts), not matter what I do and having obtained the proper bit from Harbor Freight (as no one else sells it), I cannot get the bolt to budge at all. Anyway, today, I tightened up my front hard top latches (the procedure where you cut the long nut of the latch by ~ 5 mm) and this seems to have worked well. OEM Toyota hardtop (or TRD hardtop - same thing). Add an aggressive and unique style to your convertible with a custom hardtop from VIS Racing. 2000 - 2005 Toyota MR2 OEM Style Carbon Fiber Hardtop. Its a little awkward and unwieldy to remove in the tight interior and walk out with. 2000 - 2005 Toyota MR2 OEM Style Fiberglass Hardtop - VIS Racing. Maybe it was required for the autobahn, since the 6-speed has lower RPMs on the freeway (2850 instead of 3500 70mph, or 4000 instead of 5000 100mph). Harder than expected to remove an MR2 Spyder (MR-S) Hardtop by yourself. Thank you ahead of time everyone and looking forward to being part of the community.Yes, I would assume our tops are not high theft items (as are Miata tops in some cities), but I purchased a RetroModern polished HT lock (you remove the 2 large Torx bolts from the striker and install the billet retainer and then slide the latch lock over the retainer, then it’s locked in place with a special key). Manual MR2s came with 6 gears in Europe, which improves gas mileage and reduces noise and wear. Second, does anyone have any experience with taking this to a specialist to repair? I am assuming the shell is fiberglass? 03 in Silver, Hardtop, TRD Header, front stabilizer bar, air filter, short shifter, iMR2s anti-flex plate, J-Spec nose badge, center caps, Euro-spec MR2 badge. So I guess my first question, has anyone seen this before and know how to prevent this crack from growing further? Also, the car is currently on a fairly stiff suspension, BC coilovers. Our driveway entrance is an old school 45* curb type. I did notice when I pulled into my driveway the day after buying it that the entire top seemed to creak and move back and forth relative to the rest of the chassis. I sent it to the old owner and he confirmed that there was some damage in that location before but it looked like it had grown by about double in length. It's gorgeous, I love it, made my wife get up at 6am to drive 6 hours to go get it.Īfter I got home I noticed that there is some damage on the hardtop that I think might be coming from weird loading going into the top (see picture). Recently bought an '05 MR2 Spyder with the hard top.
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